Monday, March 23, 2015

 

A pleasant Himalayan task

After graduation, the grad trip is a sacred rite of passage on which 16 of us planned to embark upon. Not quite a sweet sixteen- we made a disparate, difficult to manage group with varying interests. We began our discussions in January and after much ado about many-thing, (including Bhutan, Thailand, North-East), we settled upon the Himalayas. This after overcoming stiff opposition from Delhi and Chandigarh dwellers, for whom the feelings towards the Himalayas are not far from those experienced by Bangaloreans towards Nandi Hill or by New Yorkers towards Spiderman - friendly-neighborhoody. Here are 4 major exciting facets of the mountains I experienced.

Spectacular vistas and hikes to like

Deodar trees, reaching confidently skyward, dotted the slopes. As we rounded turns - be it on the car or foot- a majestic snow capped peak loomed in front of us. For those from the plains, the plants and trees are a world apart. Two botanic sights we got to know and love were the Deodars and the characteristic flowering plants. The river - the wide Beas gurgling over rocks - accompanied us for large parts of the drive from Kasol to Dharamshala. At Kasol, the Parvati stream is the centrepiece of the town along which are lined a few cafes, capitalising on the view. Our hike at Kasol from Barsaini to Tosh - a one-hour easy hike- offered spectacular views and it was a pleasure to ramble along the snow-strewn path, accompanied by shaggy mountain dogs. There's a longer trek here to Triund which we could not take due to inclement weather and the accompanying landslide warnings. Another leisurely hike is up to the Bhaksu Nag waterfall, where you can frolic in the ice cold water, followed by some hot Maggi and tea served by the stalls up there. You could choose to take the beaten but well maintained paved path, or you could climb along the stream itself.Take some pictures here of the Himalayan vistas, send it to Microsoft, and your picture might be the next default Windows wallpaper. Especially if they reconsider the name Vista for their operating system.

Clockwise from top left: The Parvati valley at Kasol, Up close and personal with snow in the Tosh trek, Beas river giving us company on the Kasol-Dharamshala drive, the Bhaksu Nag waterfall



Thrushes, redstarts, flycatchers - you can wing it in this cornucopia

The Himalayas are truly a birdwatcher's paradise. Keep in mind that the two of us birders in our group are but amateurs, and over the week long trip we gave the activity only 4 dedicated hours. We spoke to no experts- we "winged" it, pun intended. All you need to do is to keep your eyes open and ears keen- you will see some stunning birdies and hear some delectable tweets. Our best off-guard sighting was the Himalayan Griffon soaring high above us, its characteristic white streaked wings making large white circles in the blue sky above us as we walked towards the Tibetan monastery in McLeodGanj. Our most memorable birding trip was the dedicated 3 morning hours : 6 - 9 AM, on a hike from Naddi village towards the waterfall. That morning, we braved the dawn's biting cold by piling on the layers, and began by tentatively exploring the neighbourhood of our resort, and then wandering towards the Dal lake. We then rambled towards Naddi village, came upon this hike which seemed to be favored by a few Naddi residents, and took to it, first uncertainly but then with increasing conviction. The path- just the ideal mix of trodden and natural- was  spectacular for its natural beauty and its birding treasures. Among our sightings here were the large Yellow-billed Blue Magpie (big and beautiful but elusive- exciting kick-start to the expedition), Red-headed Parakeet (a squawking bunch of them right on top of a tree), a Verdider Flycatcher (glossy green wearing mean black sunglasses- added to the initial excitement created by the magpie), a Laughing Thrush (friendly guy, captured a minute-long video of it tittering away- funkiest video I've ever shot!), a Rock Bunting (pecking away at the ground, right towards the end of the hike), an Black Bulbul (large blackie with a startling red beak and a black crown) and a couple of UFOs (unidentified flying objects).

Clockwise from top left: Black Bulbul, Red headed Parakeet, Laughing Thrush, Verdider Flycatcher



Shopping: winter-ware in signature Himachali style; Tibet leanings at Dharamshala

A multitude of streetside stores at Kasol sold colourful and stylish Hemp and wool-wares of a kind I have never seen anywhere- the signature Himalayan hues featuring a range of colors across the vibgyor spectrum. Hemp laptop bags are attractive, and the loose colorful pyjamas are warm comfort for cold times. I found the clothing to be a wonderful change from the usual cookie cutter fashion of the urban main street. The main market in Dharamshala is choc-a-bloc with stores selling Buddhism related trinkets and apparel. The repeat Tibetan Buddhist motif is the chant of "Om Namo Padme Hum", while the apparel ranged from serious issues - "Free Tibet" endorsements and Buddhist chants; to those touching the lighter vein - "Tintin in Tibet" and "Yak Yak Yak Yak". A conversation with a monk is recommended, though it did not strike us then (pun intended).

Wearing quirky animal caps (frog, pig and tiger) in a Himalayan apparel store in Kasol

The revelry: Momo and more, and the Rhododenron wine

Dharamshala-McLeodGanj, the Indian sanctuary of Tibetans, abounds with Momo stalls and Tibetan dineries. McLlo bar is seated in the dead center of McLeodGanj town, and the walls abound with framed pictures of the whos-who who visited here. Seems from the pictures that McLlo was the favorite spot for an IPL team to celebrate a hardfought win in the Dharamshala cricket stadium down in the foothills. We were proud to occupy center-stage - all 16 of us - in that cozy, inviting ambience. The specialty here is the local produce - the apple cider and the multitude of local wines. The Rhododendron wine - yes,  made from the flower! - was the favorite tipple beating out the Apples and Plums and Cherries- and it's a group of 16 varying palates from across the range of India talking in favorable unison, so you better take us seriously.

The bustling center of McLeodGanj, with the McClo bar on the right of the picture. 3 shop and cafe-lined alleys diverge from this center






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Comments:
Who's this fellow birder? Seems like a pretty interesting character
 
I probably made the same trip 40 years ago and thoroughly enjoyed it. We were a group of 18 then. For some reason, it is not catching on - how many of the outgoing batch of IIMB have actually seen the Himalayas?

I still fondly remember the refreshingly clean air, the cottage cheese, the hot food, the clear water, the clear skies, the views, the birds, the friendly locals etc.

I later had the opportunity to go to The Alps and Mount McKinley. What the Himalayas is missing is the infrastructure that you get at The Alps and Mt. mcKinley.
 
@Pallavi. Yeah, she was quite fun. Though she had this habit of trying to bird-watch after taking off her high-power spectacles. Did not work for her.
 
@Jay: Those who are based in Delhi-Chandigarh go to the Himalayas often.

I should sign up for one of the tougher treks one of these days, to experience the infrastructure. We went on easy hikes.

My most memorable hike/trek has been the Trolltunga in Norway. 11 km one way. I should try the ones closer home- Kodachadri, say.
 
Any thoughts on the people-getting-lost-on-trek incident? Pitch dark, wild animals, below 10 degrees, landslide-prone territory, no phone or torch - slightly bad combination of circumstances to lose sight of your group.
 
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