Saturday, October 21, 2017

 

1100 AD Hoy!Sala times, Karnataka farming, VR-self drive

Belur Halebidu- Getting there, and what lies therein

We set out on a road trip to Belur Halebidu - 240 kms west of Bangalore- on a road trip. Weather was co operative, but the innards of the car were not. A wheel alignment issue arose 100 km into the journey- While we bore westward towards Hassan district, the car if left to its own would have gone to Mysore, which is south of Bangalore. In other words, the steering wheel was tilting leftward. Now this gave the car an unnerving wobble- causing us to limit ourself to 60 km. The road was the best highway I have driven on*, but unfortunately we had to live life in the slow lane, and thus I could not play "Life in the fast lane" by The Eagles on the car stereo.

Belur and Halebidu, Hoysala temples, have been recently crowned UNESCO world heritage sites. They were Capitals of the Hoysala kingdom. Interesting apocryphal story- Boy named Sala studying with guru and classmates, Attack by marauding tiger, Guru shrieks "Hoy" which means "strike", Sala bravely strikes and kills the tiger with sword, and grows up and forms the Hoysala kingdom, which takes his nickname. They should name companies this way, today, after some apocryphal story of the founder. Anyway Hoy!Sala has a millennial seeming exclamation mark in the middle of name, also, like a social network handle or something.

The empire flourished between 10th and 14th century, spread across entire Karnataka, and segued into the Vijayanagara Empire.

                                                               Hoy! Sala, go get that tiger 


Marvellous sculpture work 

Marvelous sculpture work on display at both sites. The sculptors seem to have wielded the stone like clay. Below is probably the piece de resistance.

Probably the most iconic sculpture in B-H: woman admiring herself in mirror

Apart from the god-related sculptures, which is probably common temple fare (leaving quality aside), interesting thing was that there was a lot of work depicting life of the plebs- a hunter, a trader with his weighing scales, women with 600 hair styles in various sculptures across the Belur (gender sterotypes here, but its 1000 years ago so please excuse brave young Hoy!Sala and his descendants).

From top left: a) Two hunters- one pleased prolly after successful hunt, second a bit pensive, b) a scene from general life- teenager falls in love with a donkey because a teenager can fall in love with anything (apparently), and lastly that's me subtly appreciating the quality of art


Below are walls lined with seven rows of sculptures - bottom most is elephants for strength, second is lions for bravery, fourth is horses for speed, (strength + bravery + speed = Hoy!Sala).  Third and fiftth are general artist swag in the form of curly patterns. Sixth is scenes from Ramayana and Mahabharata, seventh is general war scenes, eight is swans, and so on. Top most row is the life of common man, in the Hoy!Sala times. On the right, is further general life- pleb woman drying her hair (not royalty, not divine or anything- just a lay person).

Nice wallpaper- do you want at your home? the gaps in the wall above look Taj Mahal ; General pleb girl drying hair (she has one of the 600 hairstyles on display in the temple)


The pillars are also a highlight, too. Much elaborate work. See below.

                                                                      Whattapilla!

In trying to compare Cambodia (Siem Reap) with Belur-Halebidu - I think while scale is awe inspiring in Cambodia (the massive three face sculptures in Bayon, and the spires of Angkor Wat seen from miles away), here the elaborateness of the work is higher. Macro vs. micro. 

Farmative experience 

We drove (at our enforced gentle pace ) through roads on either side of which lay the verdant farmlands of Hassan district. We saw lots of crops, all identified by agri expert D, and we covered all parts of a basic meal- rotis made of Maize and ragi, Arar ki daal, and Ladies finger curry. We also later inspected Ginger and Chillies, to add a dash of spice. Hope to cement these learnings and thus have more fruitful road trips in the future, by gazing intelligently at the crops. Also, Interstellar connect below- Okra and Maize are the last crops to survive on earth. I don't know when the blight is coming, but these pictures with Ragi and Arar ki daal could get famous later. 

Anti clockwise from top: Ragi on my left and maize on my right for rotis, Maize with corn cob zoom in, Ladies finger curry, Arar ki daal - 100 Rs for the meal- anyone wants?


Self drive and VR section 

Since there has been a throwback to 12th century architecture and to farming, both ancient vocations, this para is to set right the balance of the ages in this post. Further, allows me to put Self drive and VR in the title, as a classic click bait or reader bait for insecure readers (such as me on many days) who want corporate/megatrends gyaan in everything they read.

During the highway drive (my first highway drive in 10 months)- I really felt the need for self drive. Driving on highways is fairly mechanical- no gear changing, limited direction changing- just gotto drone on and on at a constant speed with limited need for manual interventions. And the roads are smooth. In India, while there is chaos is the city, self drive can probably first take off on the highways.

And VR. Well, now that I've visited B-H, I really want to re visit some parts of it - the wall near the Southern gate of the main Halebidu temple, with the seven rows. I am especially interested in the pleb life. But it's 250 km away! I want it in my VR goggles. VR goggles could also have a guide, built in. India tourism could take it up big time- especially maybe as a bait for foreign tourists since we want to ratchet up that number anyway. I'll probably tweet it to them just now.

KA tourism FTW

I saw in a recent TV news panel discussion (starring Rajdeep S and some tourism heavy hitters), that to really get tourism to take off, GoI should focus on two states and make it "model" and really successful, so that others can follow. They had actually suggested KA as one of the two model states. KA has size, history, mountains (albeit no snow), beaches (Gokarna's Kudle beach is as good if not better than any Goa beach, I say basis experience when I went there with NP and DG), big cities (Blr) and town steeped in history (Mysore), and good weather. Therefore, I quite buy that logic on KA. 


Appendix
*probable reason (credits to D): limited heavy vehicle traffic

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Comments:
In a way..you were driving a bummed car on the highway... That's major living life on the fast lane...

I got an ayurvedic body massage on my trip... Helped me sleep even though I was thinking of a deck you sent.

Loved the sculptures! Major underrated stiff... Good trip 😀
 
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